In Svaneti, one could swear an ancient sort of power reigns still, drawing us towards it like a magnet. Calling again, echoing clearly from the snow-covered peaks of the Caucasus mountain ranges. The meadows are greener here, covered in countless flowers. Winters are icy and fierce. Every day life never fails to challenge the locals.…
They lived underground all covered in soot, without the option of washing or resting… It’s enough to detour off the main highway between popular tourist destinations to uncover the forgotten wealth of Georgia – as well as a site for urban exploring which will excite all those tired and bored of staring at picturesque highland…
Following the 40 degree Celsius heatwaves in Georgia, we can finally cool down in Moscow and St Petersburg, where it is a balmy 16–19°C. Such temperatures are perfect for us to admire two of the most frequently visited cities in Russia – the current and the former capitals, two different worlds, separated from our European…
Batumi tea fields? Nothing of the sort! Georgia’s real tea Eldorado can be found on the edge of the Imereti region, in Tkibuli – a town which along with nine surrounding villages and 45 settlements is known as the ancient land of Okriba. Western Georgia – a mere 30km from Kutaisi – this is where…
Every journey begins with a single step. The next one you take should be in Georgia, home to many undiscovered, original and unique places, several of which are to be found in Tbilisi. Another year has passed since I moved to Tbilisi in 2014 – in 2017, I rented an apartment in a renovated historical…
I receive numerous queries regarding the love Georgians feel for Poles. I would like to look at the causes of this affection from a broader perspective – not just in terms of popularising Georgia as a tourist destination and the war fought here in 2008, when the Polish president Lech Kaczyński backed the Georgian side.…
Where best to eat and drink in Kutaisi? I suspect this will be the first question you will be asking yourselves the moment you land in the biggest town in the Imereti region. Since this is where discount airlines fly to, more and more people starting and ending their adventures in Georgia here. Those who…
Kakheti, the birthplace of Georgia’s winemaking industry. Of the many wineries in the area, one stands out: Twins Wine Cellar in Napareuli, where one can tour a truly incredible museum of winemaking. Its name is no accident either – seeing as it is ran by twin brothers Gia and Gela Gamtkitsulashvili. Napareuli is located in…
Anyone scouring the Caucasus for real wilderness, adventures, virginal nature and places unspoilt by tourism will undoubtedly find them in Tusheti. This region, situated to the East of Georgia, is reached by only the bravest travellers – those who manage to cross the pulse-raising roads to Omalo will find themselves in the very heart of…
Three whole days with almost no sleep. The first day, at three in the morning, a flight to from Tbilisi to Warsaw. The second day, up at 3am again, for our flight to from Warsaw to Kiev is at 6am and another flight back to Tbilisi. The following night was short too – we once…
Azerbaijan is not easily classified. The local Caucasus avant-garde includes ancient towers, fortifications, castles and traditional homes mixed with architecture straight out of Stanislaw Lem’s sci-fi novels and movies. All that intertwined with hints of prehistoric influences, stunning landscapes and fabulous foods, prepared by friendly locals. For years on end, Azerbaijan was always at the…
Mestia today is just like any other highland tourist thoroughfare, commercial enough, though perhaps less crowded than elsewhere. Once visitors have explored the mighty fortified towers and the local museum, they scatter about the surrounding mountains to explore the glory of the nearby glaciers. Mestia is an excellent example of something called daba – a…
If you go skiing in Georgia, then it has to be Gudauri! This resort, found on the Georgian Military Road trail, really does deserve to be thought of as the country’s winter capital. More and more fans of fantastic skiing come here – both experienced and novices – but also all those who want to…
I’ve got married! Sophy and I said “Yes!” to one another at the end of August 2019. Our Georgian wedding gave my life a whole new dynamic and meaning. The ceremony of course was arranged in the local style, something I will now tell you all about. I have already talked about my Georgian roots…
Anyone who has seen Lord of the Rings will surely recall the scene when Gandalf arrives in the Shire – a land flowing with milk and honey, idyllic, green, peaceful, fairytale. A real such Shire exists – to me, this is Racha, a magical region in north-western Georgia, right at the feet of the High…
One day tours from Tbilisi are a great way to quickly and inexpensively discover Georgia’s most interesting parts. The country is relatively small, hence most places are easy to reach. Where should we go then? Here comes a list of 12 one-day routes – many reachable by solitary travellers, but if you prefer to journey…
Let us travel together to visit a typical Georgian bazaar in the town of Telavi, in Kakheti region. This is the sort of place you really can buy just about anything: fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, spices, churchkhela, homemade wines and vodka, pen knives, all sorts of electronics and numerous cosmetics. Let us see what sorts…
“With heavy hearts we bid Georgian shores farewell” – with these words, the Polish all-girl band Filipinki celebrated a place they had never been to or seen with their own eyes. It was only a little later that the band members had the chance to visit Georgia, in order to see for themselves the beauty…
On the 22nd of March 2017, the “supra”, which is a traditional Georgian feast, was added to the list of international cultural heritage by UNESCO. Its unique status gives this item of Georgian heritage a legal form of protection and proves that the supra meal is something more than a simple feast. It is a…
What is the safest way of travel round Georgia when driving a car? The question is meaningless, seeing as Georgians drive like mad – at least they do according to Western standards – the local roads lined with all sorts of surprises and traps. All foreigners who choose to drive here must keep their eyes…
On the route from the airport, Batumi to the left, Kutaisi to the right, the festival of rust and Georgian recycling resourcefulness continues. The road is decorated with workshops stuck to each other, and in front of them car wrecks being diligently recycled into new models, of course cows on the road and on the…
Tbilisi is a magical city. I can feel it and see it every single time at any hour, be it during a day or night. I drive my car back and forth listening to Shokoladi (98.5 FM) and they play the Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and many more bands from the 1980s as well…
8 poems ruptures (medley) and another line deprives access to the sea we stand on the pier paralysed like all those stories about a group of friends honouring the final wish of one dead rolling through countries and bars cross crossroads with the promise of ashes scattered along the coast but once there can’t…
A lot of people ask me what is all about and why it’s worth living in Georgia. Georgia, like any other place in the world, is not for everyone. You can be impressed by Georgian blaze of colors, landscapes, openness and hospitality. You can be as well annoyed by Georgian chaos, still prevailing Soviet lack of…
I was single again when I decided to go to Georgia for longer. My friends, the dating experts for divorcees, welcomed that with a smirk and a question how I was going to handle these things. Some of my buddies were quite convinced I would go for multiple affairs with some beautiful and mysterious…
The traditional process of winemaking in Georgia has been on the Intangible Cultural Heritage List of UNESCO for quite some time now. Hence, this is a great opportunity to give you a little insight into this great liquor which, if we take the scientists at their word, originated in Georgia. Many people say that ‘wine’…
Tbilisi – the city of liquid gold It is through the scent and flavor that we may get to know most countries in the world. We travel in order to, at least for a second, feel and understand the inhabitants of a particular region and enjoy what they experience on a regular basis. The colorful…